Aug. 9

They say that journalism is "literature in a hurry." Believe it!

This morning we had to wake the girls at 7 a.m. We got them dressed in their new panda t-shirts and jeans shorts (which I folded over at the top so they wouldn't fall down) and headed to breakfast. Even though it is a buffet meal, it takes a full hour to ensure that everyone eats heartily. Scarlett had lots of milk and yogurt, and Sienna had her usual noodles and watermelon with orange juice. Peter had a made-to-order omlette and yogurt, and I had noodles and hash browns.

We met Glen at 9 a.m. for our ride to the Guilin SWI ("Social Welfare Institute" or orphanage). It took about 25 minutes to get there. It was on the outskirts of town in a less scenic area. We didn't know what to expect.

We went through the orphanage gate which is where the girls were found on Aug. 4, 2004. People seem quick to pass judgment on their biological mother, but no one really knows what happened. Perhaps she died in childbirth. Maybe the girls were taken from her without her consent. What if her husband or partner threatened her or if the pregnancy were unplanned? There could have been three babies and maybe she could only afford to care for one? Or maybe she thought someone else could provide a better life for them and she made the difficult and loving decision to allow them to have that better life. We don't know, and we won't know. And I will not judge her -- especially through my Western eyes.

As the van drove through the gate, Sienna immediately knew where we were. She seemed frightened. Although she never lived here, she and her sister would have come to the orphange for monthly "check ins." This would have involved things likes vaccinations and invasive examinations. So her fear was justified. We had Glen reassure her that we were just coming for a short visit and that everything would be okay. She believed him and calmed down instantly.

We got out of the van and there was the girls' foster mother (along with the orphanage director's wife and another orphanage worker -- both of whom we knew from doing the paperwork in Nanning). The foster mother was so happy to see the twins and they were happy to see her! Nevertheless, the foster mother was careful to remind the girls that they have a new mama and baba. She encouraged them to stay close to us. Scarlett seemed especially in need of hugs and cuddles from her foster mother. We were told that Scarlett was especially close to her foster mother and that Sienna was especially close to her foster father. I was not at all surprised by this news.

We gave the foster mother a gift bag with a few items for the other twins she is caring for. (We were told that those twins will probably be adopted locally.) Meanwhile, she showered our girls with generous gifts such as two handmade traditional Chinese outfits (one of which she just finished making) and two beautiful jade bracelets for the girls when they grow up. She showed us a number of photos of the girls with her extended family. We hope similar shots will be on the one-use cameras she used to photograph the girls.

In the midst of it all, Sienna suddenly declared she had to relieve herself. She allowed her foster mother to take her to a nearby tree while I got out a tissue for her. I'm sure the foster mother was disappointed at the large size of her shorts which I altered for the second time this morning using just a simple hotel sewing kit. (While the foster mother might not have been impressed with my handiwork, Peter was. He said he had never seen me use a needle and thread before this trip.)

We learned that the foster mother didn't know anything about our adoption paperwork for the twins until they received the gift basket on July 23. It wasn't a complete surprise, though, because she knew that the orphanage was trying to find an overseas home for the girls. (That's why they were photographed last August at the orphanage's colorful and fun playground.)

In addition, a six-year-old boy came out to meet with us. He, too, lives in foster care. He will soon be adopted by a loving family in Utah. We had tons of presents (including an incredible photo album from his mother-to-be). This young boy is very outgoing. We were told he is popular among the other children, and we could see why. He is learning to speak English and he is talented in math. He seemed happy to know that he will soon have a forever home in the U.S. So if you are ever wondering if "these children" are in favor of overseas adoptions, the answer is a resounding yes!

While our trip to the orphanage was billed as a "tour," it was actually a "meet and greet" session in the park within the compound. We didn't get to see any of the babies or living accommodations, but that was fine. We completely understand their need for privacy, and we were amazed at how much we did get to see and learn from our visit. (Not all adoptive parents have this sort of access either because they don't want it, or the orphanage director doesn't permit it.) We are forever grateful for this opportunity.

After about an hour of socializing, it was time to move on. The foster mother started to tear up, so she quickly turned lest the girls see her sadness. She loves them so much that she puts their well-being far ahead of her own. She slowly walked to the orphanage gate to get her scooter and she never looked back. She COULDN'T look back.

Meanwhile, our van wouldn't start -- not even with several pushes. So after five minutes of troubleshooting, we were offered a ride back in a different van. As we were leaving the local area, we noticed the foster mother on her scooter at the side of the road where she would turn to go home. She was waiting there to wave goodbye to us as we drove past. Her heart was breaking and so was mine. We promised to send her photos of the girls in their new home. I hope that is of some comfort.

We got back to the hotel and relaxed a bit. We all had something to eat for lunch. Peter had a pan au chocolate (croissant with chocolate inside) with his tea, and I had a couple of small buns with hard cheese and tomatoes. Scarlett had more milk and yogurt, and Sienna had nuts and crackers.

We had to be out of our room by 1 p.m., but it was more like 1:30 p.m. before it actually happened. There was a lot to pack, and I wanted things to be organized. Although we got rid of a lot of things (such as another bag of orphanage donations, a big box of American candy bars for the kids in the orphanage, and gifts for the foster mother and her other twins), we now had additional items given to the girls by their foster mother (clothing, jewelry and special yogurts, milks and candies). This is not by any means a complaint; it is merely a description of all the wealth that we are lugging around.

We gave our big suitcases to the bell captain, but we kept the smaller bags with us in the lobby. We sort of made a nest for ourselves. We knew we would have a 90-minute wait for the van.

Peter got out the folding bike so I could go for a spin. It was the best 45-minute bike ride ever! The scenery was beautiful, but I also enjoyed learning more about Guilin since this is where our daughters grew up. It was a priceless experience. I begged Peter to go on a quick ride as well while I watched the girls, but he refused. I feel as though I know Guilin in a way that I couldn't have known it without the bike ride. However, I couldn't convince him of this.

While I was gone, Peter and the girls played with strangers in the lobby. We also met some two-year-old Chinese twins who live with their Chinese parents in Canada. We took the girls to the bathroom and then boarded the van.

During our ride, Glen informed us that when he called to confirm tomorrow's flight from Nanning to Guangzhou, he discovered that it had been cancelled! He was able to get us seats on a flight that leaves a few hours earlier. However, the girls' Chinese passports might not be ready for pick up in Nanning by the time we leave. If that is the case, he is going to have a Finnish couple take them to us. (They are in Nanning for a few days and are heading to Guangzhou and will stay at the same hotel.) This plan sounds a bit odd, but apparently it is done with some regularity. In any event, Glen will have an adoption certificate for us to show at the airport so the girls can board the flight.

It was only a short ride to the train station. Here the porters would pull the suitcases by making use of their convenient handles and wheels. (But in Nanning, they once again tied the suitcases to long, thin pieces of wood and hung them from their shoudlers.)

The priority waiting area was packed. We boarded the train with hoardes of other people. It was quite chaotic -- especially in comparison to the smooth boarding procedures in Nanning. But soon we settled in to our seats.

It wasn't long until a man came by with toys for sale. These were the same toys we had already purchased on the ride to Guilin. I asked Peter to get a few more of the triangular plastic toys as presents, but he said we couldn't carry anything more. Unfortunately, later that night I received an e-mail from our dear friend, Bev, asking us to buy two for her family. I'm hoping we'll see those toys again somewhere. (We have a train ride scheduled from Guangzhou to Shenzhen, so perhaps there will be another opportunity.) And man sold fruits and vegetables, too, just as before.

It was a long ride for everyone. The girls ate yogurt and drank milk. Sienna ate some banana. Peter and I had a yogurt. Glen went to the snack bar and got a container of noodles. Basically you get a big bowl with a few noodles inside and then you add boiling water to cook everything. It seemed to be the most popular food onboard the train.

I had a nap with Scarlett in my arms. Sienna napped, too. Glen was a big help in getting Scarlett to eat. We used our tablecloth as a giant bib. Boy was it a mess!

Peter took Sienna to the bathroom. He later took Scarlett to the bathroom (while I slept) to change her diaper -- with no prompting or instructions on my part. (I guess he learned by watching me. Plus she was only wearing a pull-up.) He is a fantastic Baba!

We pulled into the station at 9 p.m. which was 30 minutes earlier than I thought we would get in. It was a welcome surprise! We got some porters to help us to the van. Before we knew it, we were back at the Majestic Hotel. While we checked in, I excused myself to use the bathroom. I didn't want to use the one on the train. I heard it wasn't good and believed it. (In case you are wondering, a reserved seat ticket on a the five-hour train ride from Nanning to Guilinbei cost about $7 per person, so they don't have a big operating budget.)

The room was very similar to the one we had the first time around. The only difference is that we don't have a computer for rent in this room. (I don't need to rent one anyway, and it is nice have more space on the desk.) We quickly settled in and gave the girls a bath. Scarlett demanded that someone hold her until she went to sleep. Peter held her while I logged on to the computer. I had a couple of things to take care of on the Internet. Plus I learned that I did make it into the 2007 Cast Choir (as a soprano) which performs at the holidays. Hooray!

Peter and I did some reading and fell asleep quickly. (I had a brand new copy of The International Herald which is a fantastic paper for overseas travelers which combines the best articles from The New York Times, The Washington Post, etc. And the more interesting the news, the faster I fall asleep!) I woke up at 4:20 a.m. and laid in bed for 30 minutes before I realized there was no way I could get any more sleep. Peter woke up about two hours later and is now making tea. The girls are still sleeping. Apparently the light from the computer screen and all of my typing doesn't bother them. That is good to know because I am on my computer quite a bit -- whether at home or on the road.